Coffee on the New England coast
Writing and Photography By Sean Coyne
What would it be like to drink coffee from 7 different shops in 3 different states over the course of 3 days? To find out I drew a line from Portland Maine down to Providence Rhode Island that linked together 7 unique coffee roasters. In common were their commitment to independent specialty coffee but each with a different approach to cafe aesthetics and coffee presentation. Visiting these places in quick succession opened my eyes to the diversity on coffee quality and ideas in this small corner of the country.
Tandem | Portland, ME
Founded in 2012, Tandem Coffee Roasters is a recognizable symbol for quality in our diverse specialty industry. Specializing in both Coffee and Baked Goods, Tandem put together a collection of cozy spaces that welcome in existing and new community members to an elevated coffee experience. Their reputation for consistencey and quality put them at the top of my list for places I wanted to visit.
Two bustling Portland locations house Tandem’s hospitality vision. I chose to visit their roastery because it was outside the downtown area (parking is a luxury) and for my own personal interest in production spaces. Unfortunately the roasting space is located in a separate building from where the coffee bar is. However I was in for a treat regardless. The cafe is a small, two room setup that splits the space into the bar/POS area and a benched seating area. As the door closes shut behind you the chitter chatter of cafe patrons fill in with the fresh smell of baked goods. In front of you is one of the most diverse display of pastries, breads, and cookies all for your taking. You move up through the line fast and are greeted with the warmest smile and multiple colors of coffee to choose for on bar.
The coffee I tried was their washed Catui from Costa Rica produced by Daniel Gutierrez. It had round sweetness with a clean crisp malic acidity. Brewed on an automatic pour over setup and served in a diner style mug. The most memorable part of Tandem was the service. On the register was one of the friendliest people i had the pleasure of meeting on the trip. They made me, someone brand new to the area and only passing through, feel like I was always and will always be welcome in that space. As I was sitting I also noticed how they knew people by name who walked in and out of the cafe. One of them being a little baby who asked for a water! One customer asked a brewing question and during a busy service they were walked through why grind size and ratio matters. That was rare to see and a testament to why the sense of community in that space felt so strong.It also showed me first hand why Tandem has a good reputation. They are going above and beyond to raise coffee standards and experiences.
Speckled Ax | Portland, Me
Located in Portland Maine, Speckled Ax is a Good Food Award Industry leading wood fired specialty coffee roastery. Founded in 2007 as Matt’s Wood Roasted Organic Coffee Speckled Ax has a long history of offering high quality coffee that delivers value to the consumer while “also bring some measure of justice to the people who grow and harvest it” (Speckled Ax website).
This was my first stop in the trip. I popped into their Congress St location after a long drive east from Vermont. I had originally planned a stop at Tandem as well on my first day but Speckled Axe was the only location on my list open past 1pm. I usually am not a late in the day cafe patron but this trip showed me the benefit and luxury of cafes that accommodate a late afternoon pick-me-up. As do the locals who I mixed in with during an afternoon rush. This cafe has a hole in the wall feeling as the outside has no prominent signage to point you to the beans. I navigated myself to the door using the nifty blue icon on my maps app. Walking in side the atmosphere is a classic New York City long and skinny style room. The bar is situated in the back which allows you to scope out a seat as you make your way down the shop. This allows you to pick out your seat before you have to order a coffee. I liked this layout because I often find myself caught between finding an open seat and focusing on the coffee menu as the same time. Allowing your customer to make one decision at a time improves the experience. The coffee on bar (pictured above) was a blend of a Natural Ethiopia and a washed Kenya called Boom Chain. This is Speckled Axe’s fruit forward blend series to highlight bright origin characteristics in a unique way. It was served on a fun tray with branded parchment paper In a solid tea cup and glass carafe. Flavor profile on the hot side was all fruit and candy. Bright jammy blackberry/cranberry notes filled my palate and accentuated with a tart smarties like sweetness. As it cooled the jammyness was replaces with a thinner body with more clarity. Chocolate and caramel notes began to dominate the cup while the acidity kept it crispy. Also unique was their slow bar setup. Unlike the other shops I visited during the trip, Speckled Ax hand poured everything on their brew to order menu. While this takes time away from the baristas on bar it makes a difference in showcasing the dedication to elevating the coffee experience.
Speckled Ax is a wood fired coffee roaster and the decor inside their cafe does not hide that fact. From wood floors, wood bench seats and tables to the wood colored walls and lamp shades tell you right away this is something different to the norm.
A space with purpose. A cafe that goes the extra distance to incorporate their brand into the experience connects the customer to the coffee value chain.
Not only a space for coffee but community as well. It was great to spend time amidst the Portland laptop club as the sounds of coffee ground and port filters clicked into gear.
Little Wolf | Ipswich, ma
If your looking for coffee in Massachusetts, this name is bound to be mentioned. Little Wolf began its coffee journey in Ipswich, just outside of Boston. Prior to their official opening in 2016, the founders grew the idea from their own intense passion for coffee. From home roasting to a brand name in the industry Little Wolf highlights excellence in the specialty coffee scene.
Indicative of this excellence is their new cafe. If you find yourself on a drive south from Maine it is a good idea to take a detour off the highway out to Ipswich to see it. As you emerge from the quaint suburb streets you see the stark white roasting garage decorated with blue dogs and words of coffee admiration. You know your in the right place. Right across from the garage is its sibling cafe dressed in the Little Wolf blue. Inside is a wall too wall brand cohesive space. From the espresso machine to the bar stools are hand picked and curated elements that tie you to the personality that Little Wolf seeks to foster. In short, this is like no other cafe.
Equal to the aesthetics was their showcase of coffee on bar. Little Wolf had the most coffee origins to try amongst the shops on this trip. By the cup you could try a washed Colombia, or a Natural Pocitos E-20 Varietal from Mexico! I chose to go with a washed Ecuador because I hadn’t had any coffee from their yet this year and was super excited. Brewed on an automatic pour over and served in a beautiful glass and ceramic carafe and mug. In the cup was a Boozy, Lime, and Amaretto flavor profile. This coffee was so expressive. Navigating through choosing coffee of a menu like that can be challenging for a consumer who isn’t familiar with coffee transparency in the industry. Pushing past that challenge and creating ways to educate through experience is essential. I appreciated Little Wolf’s commitment to that standard.
Gracenote Coffee | Boston, MA
In the heart of Boston specialty coffee sings to the tune of Gracenote. Founded on the basis of making coffee accessible Gracenote Coffee roasts in a style favorable to a seasoned drinker and one who is just starting their journey. They say their fuller roast profile brings out what the beans have to offer without sacrificing their delicacy. To find out firsthand what this meant I navigated down from Ipswich to the center of the city.
If you want to take a trip to Boston, don’t drive. I lost sight of this fact as i was trying to reach all of my destinations in a day. Little did I realize parking my car would be a big problem. Most cafes on this trip resided in less dense areas on New England and so I had gotten used to the convivence of a parking lot or an empty street. This became a limiting factor in trying to experience coffee in Boston. I found a parking garage that had a reduce rate for…30 min. So I started my mad dash to the cafe! In a 10 minuet jog I arrived at Gracenote on Lincoln street. You can spot the quaver symbol from a mile away. Up a ramp and into the cafe is a beautiful wood bar equipped with a mod bar espresso setup. On the wall to the right is the retail display holding the elegant white coffee bags. The space is compact but you don’t feel crowded while inside. To make my time crunch I ordered a drip coffee to go!
On bar was the Ethiopia Danche Lot 2. In the cup was the sweetest brew of the trip. I enjoyed this cup on my way bac to my car and every sip had my step skipping a little faster. This was also my first single origin Ethiopia of the trip as well and I liked this coffees intense florality. The balance of sweetness and florality was a sign of what that fuller roast profile meant. It was not super bright and acidic like most of the specialty Ethiopia’s i’ve come across but not anywhere near a medium or dark roast.
Broadsheet | Cambridge, Ma
Another small company that would come to offer a wide range of high quality diverse coffee was founded in 2017. Broadsheet Coffee contrast the other two Massachusetts shops with their lively colorful branding and attitude. Roasting in Somerville MA on a Loring and brewing coffee in their Cambridge cafe Broadsheet carries on the stories of conscientious and caring producers.
Weave your way from the bustling downtown of the city out to the neat streets of Cambridge to find the bright neon coffee sign in the Broadsheet cafe windows.
I parked a couple blocks away from Broadsheet due to the continued lack of public spaces available. Although this put me in a unique position because I ended up walking the quite streets of Cambridge. I never saw myself going to Harvard. Yet now I walked down the street, backpack in tow, past the classrooms and study halls on my way to the local cafe. Where a cafe is located is as important as the coffee it serves. Who is drinking your coffee shapes how that coffee is perceived and it is important to understand a cafes identity in its community. My experience pretending I was a Harvard student shaped my own interaction with Broadsheet that day in a way I didn’t experience with every other cafe I visited this trip. I really enjoyed that experience, as much as I enjoyed their coffee.
My first and only decaf of the trip was Broadsheets’ E.A. Colombia. if you know me you know I love decaf and so this was no less than any other cup of coffee enjoyed over these three days. Rather it was an opportunity to continue drinking amazing coffee and have the ability to sleep at my next destination. In the cup was sweet milk chocolate, rich caramel, and the hint of stewed jam. Served in a to-go cup as an Americano this decaf settled me into the evening as the sun set over the red stone buildings.
Borealis coffee company | riverside, ri
Founded in 2014 from a home roasting passion turned movie set start up is Borealis Coffee Company. Influences from the pacific north west and Alaska show up all over Borealis and are expressions of the founder and head roasters roots. Their coffee menu is filled with origins from all over the world while all having a robust profile that warms your heart, something long dark winters will make you appreciate.
Unlike the 6 other coffee company on this list, I had never come across Borealis until I woke up In Rhode Island on that Sunday. On a search for more coffee I ended up on a local subreddit for Providence highlighting the local coffee scene and they were shouted out in multiple occasions. It is hard to find the good local spots without having a conversation prior about where to go. Borealis felt like a hidden secret for a company that is at a three location size, which is nothing to sneeze at. Firmly established and rooted in their community Borealis Coffee Company is filling the hearts of Rhode Island residents with great coffee.
Pablo Del Cid. Finca El Jardin, Guatemala
In the cup was a roasty almond chocolate bar dipped in vanilla cream.
I picked the small, train station esque cafe, in riverside situation along the local bike path that leads out to the ocean. Magical that day was the unexpected snow falling from the sky as I made my way up to the cafe door. Accentuating the Alaskan feel of the coffee companies identity. I walked past the people waiting along the wall for orders and through some tables to get to the back of the line. On a Sunday morning people flock here for shelter, enjoyment, and the community. Sandwiches and drinks are set up and swept away by the patrons walking in and out, whether staying for a time or wherever their lives are taking them next. I was fortunate to have my life take me their for the day.
Bolt Coffee at RISD | Providence, RI
The best coffee roaster in Rhode Island according to Food & Wine, Bolt Coffee has come along way from their coffee cart origins in 2012. Now serving up beans and beverages in three different retail locations as well as a production facility, visiting Providence is to also visit Bolt.
Underneath stories of art and history Bolt operates a cafe in the RISD Museum. Filled from wall to wall with students and visitors, Baristas curate the cups of people looking to expand their perception of the world. This would be my final stop of the trip before heading back to Vermont. Like the collections above your head at this location Bolt has a long history in the specialty industry. I was excited to filly walk through their doors after years of hearing bout their quality from my peers in the industry. It was the best way to end a trip exploring what this region has to offer. On bar that day was the Rafael Lara from Honduras. In the cup was the crispiest of apples and sweet caramel.
As was the case with Broadsheet, this cafes location shaped how i interacted with the coffee in ways i could not have predicted. The wide granite steps that lead you down into the cafe are grandiose and elegant. A high ceiling supports beautiful lighting and artwork from local artists. Afterwards you walk through the doors to the museum and are taken on a journey through time. From modern sculpture to ancient mummies. Walking through those halls connected me with how coffee spans generations and has as rich of a story as the works of art hanging on the wall. In-fact it was most likely involved in the creation of these works as intellectuals and artists gathered in coffee shops to debate and create for as long as the drink has been around. Bolt and the specialty coffee industry at large are the extension of this coffee history, bringing us into the future with new ways to interact with the storied drink.